Types of Nails

These are some of the most common types of nails:

• Common nails: These types of nails are the first choice for many framing, construction and carpentry jobs. The heavy shank provides sturdy support for framing and other rough work. The round head is visible on the surface. Use common nails when strength and function are more important than appearance.
• Box nails: Although they look like common nails, they have thinner shanks. Box nails are less likely to split thinner pieces of wood. Their slender shaft also means they aren't as strong. They are often galvanized to help prevent corrosion.
• Brad nails: Brads are made of 18-gauge wire. Their small size and head makes them a good choice for wood trim, moulding or other decorative wood surfaces. Their subtle appearance provides a clean finish in various woodworking projects.
• Finishing nails: Finish nails are very thin and are made to disappear when hammered into wood. However, they are still strong enough to hold trim such as door jambs and crown moulding in place. They come in a variety of nail sizes.

• Cut nails: These are often considered the best nails for hardwood flooring. They feature a blunt point and tapered shank. Cut nails have a four-sided design that reduces splitting, increases resistance to bending and makes them difficult to remove.
• Drywall nails: Used for gypsum boards, drywall nails have little rings along the shaft. This makes them less likely to slip out after being driven in. The nail heads of ring shank nails have a cupped shape.
• Duplex nails: These nails have a second head along the shaft. This makes them easy to remove and ideal for temporary construction, scaffolding and more.
• Flooring nails: These have different designs for fastening to different materials. Underlayment nails have rings on the shanks for a firm installation of plywood floor or subfloor. Other wood flooring nails have a spiral shank to reduce slippage.
• Framing nails: Similar to a common nail, these are thinner and have a flat nail head. Framing nails are often coated so they can be easily driven flush or counter sunk.
• Masonry and concrete nails: Made from hardened steel, concrete nails have fluted shafts. Masonry nails have grooved shafts that can cling to concrete or brick. This makes them less likely to loosen or slip when supporting an object. Masonry nails are more budget friendly than concrete nails and less likely to bend or break. If flooring isn't being attached directly to wood, fluted masonry nails can be used to attach furring strips and floor plates to uncured concrete.
• Roofing nails: Their wide nail head keeps house wrap, sheathing and roofing felt in place. More commonly found as ring shank nails, they sometimes will have twisted shafts for increased holding power. Short and stocky roofing nails are galvanized to resist corrosion while securing shingles. Copper nails are sometimes used for roofing.
• Siding nails: These are a strong and weather-resistant nail designed for fastening siding.
• Joist hanger nails: Made for both indoor and outdoor use, these nails are typically double-dipped galvanized or stainless steel. They are specifically designed for installing joist hangers.
• Specialty nails: These include upholstery nails, corrugated fasteners, wood joiners and others designed for specific applications.

Nail sizes are based on two measurements: diameter and length. A nail's "gauge" is a measurement of its diameter and is seen mostly on finishing nails. The higher the number, the thinner the nail is. A nail's length is measured from the head to the tip of the point. Nail length is indicated by the letter "d." Below are common nail sizes and their corresponding lengths:

• 2d - 1 inch
• 3d - 1 1/4 inches
• 4d - 1 1/2 inches
• 5d - 1 3/4 inches
• 6d - 2 inches
• 8d - 2 1/2 inches
• 10d - 3 inches
• 12d - 3 1/4 inches
• 16d - 3 1/2 inches
• 20d - 4 inches
• 30d - 4 1/2 inches
• 40d - 5 inches
• 50d - 5 1/2 inches
  

Tip: Nails 6 inches or longer are often referred to as spikes.

Counting the differences in size and coatings, there are thousands of varieties of nails. These varieties are created by combining different types of heads, shanks and points.

Nail heads:

• Flat heads: The head remains visible as it rests on the nailed surface. The head offers a large striking surface and also gives additional holding power.
• Checkered flat heads: Designed to prevent slippage when hammering from awkward angles, they have a grid-like pattern.
• Countersunk heads: These have a conical shape designed to be countersunk or pushed out of sight below the surface. The angles of this cupped head range from tight on finishing nails to saucer-like on a drywall nail.

Nail points:

• Nails with dull points glide through the wood without splitting it, making them ideal for delicate woodworking.
• Most nails have diamond points that are slightly blunted and are good for general use.
• Long diamond points resemble the tip of a needle and work well when splitting isn't an issue like with drywall.
• Blunt-pointed cut nails are the best nail points for hard wood flooring.

Nail shanks:

• A standard nail shank, also called a bright shank, is smooth.
• Annular ring or ring shank nails have a series of raised rings around the shaft. They compress wood fibers, making them more difficult to pull out of soft- or medium-density wood.
• Barbed shanks have a pattern designed for use on dense hardwoods.
• Spiral shanks are shaped like a helix. They're designed to twist into the wood and lock themselves in.
• Fluted or knurled threads help prevent masonry from cracking.

Nail coatings:

• Galvanization is a process that coats nails with zinc to provide protection from rust.
• Cement coating offers additional holding strength.
• Vinyl coating is designed to increase holding strength and to make nails easier to drive in.

Collated nails:

• Nails for nail guns are arranged in strips or coils held together by glue and plastic or paper tape.
• Available for a different of types of nails, these strips can be inserted into a nail gun's magazine for rapid driving.

Consider these tips when using nails:

• When working with harder woods or nailing into the end of a piece of wood, drill a pilot hole first. This helps prevent the wood from splitting when you drive in the nail.
• Nails driven through, or against, the wood grain lock into place. Nails driven with the grain will slide out more easily.
• If you're concerned about rust, use aluminum nails. These can resist rust even better than rust-resistant finishes.
• If you're using cedar or redwood, use stainless steel nails. They won't corrode, break down or stain your wood.
• Avoid driving multiple nails on the same grain line. The increased stress is likely to cause the wood to split.
• Always wear eye protection when driving a nail into masonry.