How to Build a Loft Bed

Before building a loft bed, think about safety. It's elevated from the floor and falling from it is a safety concern. Keep the individual user in mind when selecting a loft bed and remember that they aren't appropriate for everyone.

When placing the bed, one side and one end should be against walls so that the bed can be screwed to the wall. This provides necessary stability.

To secure the bed to a wall:

• There should be a screw at each corner of the bed that touches the wall, making four mounting points.
• The screws should go through the middle of the top rail.
• For drywall or paneled walls, screw through the bed frame, through the wall covering and into wall studs.
• If the wall is concrete, drill holes through the bed frame to accommodate the screws. Then, anchor bolts or concrete screws can be used. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for driving the screws into the concrete.

Tip: Check your rental agreement before choosing to build a loft bed. Some policies do not allow attaching furniture to walls.

Furniture building requires a better grade of lumber than most projects. When selecting the lumber, choose the straightest boards with the fewest knots. Be mindful of end cracks that extend too far up into the wood. Pick up extra lumber to allow for cutting mistakes.

Lumber:

• Eight 2x6x8 boards
• Two 2x6x10 boards
• Four 2x4x8 boards
• Four 2x4x10 boards
• Four 2x2x8 boards
• Three 1x6x10 boards
• One 3/4-inch 4-foot x 8-foot sheet of plywood

Once you have the lumber, you’ll need the following hardware:

• A box of 2 1/2-inch pocket hole screws
• A box of 1-1/2-in wood screws
• Two boxes of 3-inch #10 washer head wood screws
• A box of 4-inch #10 washer head wood screws
• 4 screws for attaching the bed to the wall. These will vary based on your walls and baseboard, but will be 6 inches long in most cases
• Two 5-inch zinc-plated tee hinges (for the folding desk)
• Two 1 1/2- x 72-inch continuous hinges (for the folding desk)
• One 2-inch zinc-plated window bolt (for the folding desk)

Other Materials:

• Wood glue
• Wood putty
• 120 and 220 grit sandpaper
• Paint

Tools:

• Circular or miter saw
• Drill and/or Impact driver
• Orbital sander
• Pocket hole jig, drill bit, and driver bit
• Heavy duty clamps
• Tape measure
• Carpenter's square
• Painting equipment (brush, drop cloth, cleaning)
• Safety glasses
• Hearing protection
• Dust mask

Use a circular or miter saw to cut the lumber to size. Lay the cuts out to make the best use of the wood. Before assembly, all rough edges and the faces of each board should be sanded smooth. Start with 120 grit sandpaper then progress to 220. Be careful not to round over any of the cut ends that will be butt joined to other pieces.

As you cut the pieces, bundle and mark them for easier assembly later. If labeling the pieces will make it easier, use a felt marker to write on painter's tape, then stick it to the parts.

Legs:

• Four 2x6 boards at 70 inches long
• Four 2x4 boards at 70 inches long

Inner Slat Rail:

• Two 2x2 boards at 54 inches long
• Two 2x2 boards at 72 inches long

Lower Frame and Top Rail:

• Four 2x6 boards at 79 inches long
• Four 2x6 boards at 54 inches long

Spacer Blocks:

• Ten 2x4 boards at 6 inches long

Ladder:

• Four 2x4 boards at 60 inches long

Slats:

• Six 1x6 boards at 54 inches long

Desk and headboard rails:

• Four 2x4 boards at 54 inches long

Desk side supports:

• Two 2x4 boards at 18 inches long

Desktop:

• One 18x56-inch piece of 3/4-inch MDF

Braces:

• One 2x4 board at 76 inches
• One 2x4 board (to be measured diagonally)

• Wood glue should be used in every joint, in every step.
• Spread glue evenly on both contact surfaces.
• Clean off glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth or paper towel.

Start building the bed's lower frame and top rail:

• Connect the 79-inch 2 x 6 boards to the 54-inch 2 x 6 boards with wood glue.
• Create a joint by placing the 54-inch board to the inside of the 79-inch board.
• Drill pilot holes and drive 4-inch screws through each end to create secure butt joints all around. Three screws should be used for each joint.
• Once the frame is assembled, the inside dimensions will be 54 inches by 76 inches. Overall dimension should be 57 inches by 79 inches.
• Repeat the process above for the top rail.

Tip: The finished bed is very heavy and may be difficult to move. Assemble the bed on the floor of the room it will be in. The individual assembled pieces of this bed will also be quite heavy. Consider getting help from another person.

• Drill two pocket holes into one end of each 6-inch 2x4. This end will attach to the lower frame.
• On the opposite end of each 2x4, drill two more pocket holes. This end attaches to the top rail.
• On the long sides of the frames, measure and draw a mark 37-1/2 inches from each end. This will be the placement for the middle spacer. For the other two spacers, measure and mark 18-3/4 inches from each end. This mark will align with the outside edge of the two outer spacer blocks.
• On the short ends of the frames, measure and mark 16-1/2 inches from each end. This mark will align with the outside edge of the two spacer blocks.
• Attach the blocks securely to the frame with wood glue and two 1-1/2-inch screws based on the marks you’ve drawn.
• Place the top rail frame on top of the spacer blocks and align with the lower frame.
• Attach the top rail to the spacer blocks with wood glue and two 1-1/2-inch screws.
• All spacer blocks should remain completely flush and spaced evenly.

When attaching boards face-to-face with 3-inch screws, be careful to drive them all the way in. However, do not overdrive them. This can make the point come out the other side. If the point does punch through, blunt it with a hammer or use a file to flatten it.

• With the frame lying flat, attach the 54-inch 2x2 boards for the inner slat rail to the inside of the lower frame at each end with wood glue and 3-inch screws.
• Attach the 72-inch 2x2 boards to the inside of the 54-inch 2x2 board with wood glue and 3-inch screws, creating a butt joint.
• Make sure each of these pieces is flush with the bottom of the lower frame.
• Take the 1 x 6 slat boards and space them evenly on top of the frame.
• Attach the slats using wood glue and two 1-1/2-inch screws on each end.
• Once the bed platform is built, assemble the legs. Drill pilot holes before adding screws to prevent the wood from splitting.
• Using wood glue and 4-inch screws, make a butt joint. When viewed from the end, the joint will be in the shape of a capital letter “L” with one of the 70-inch 2x6 boards and one of the 70-inch 2x4 boards.
• Use clamps to hold the boards in place while you drive the screws in.
• Drive screws at roughly 12-inch intervals so that there are six in each leg.
• Repeat the steps above with the remaining three 2x6 and 2x4 boards until all four legs are made.

If you haven’t had help until now, get someone to help attach the legs, ladder and brace. These pieces are too heavy to handle alone safely.

• Drill pilot holes for all screws.
• Use clamps to hold each leg in place before driving the screws. Clamps will ensure that the wood glue makes good contact and that the screws pull the whole assembly tight.
• Make sure the legs are flush and square with the top of the frame before driving screws.
• The frame should be upside down. The legs will be standing into the air during this process.
• Attach the legs, one at the time on each corner with wood glue and screws.
• From the outside of the legs and into the frame, drive four 3-inch screws into the 2 x 6 and two 3-inch screws into the 2x4.
• Drive two 3-inch screws from the inside, through the frame and into the 2x6 and two into 2x4.

Starting on the short side of the bed, on the inside of the legs, add a ladder and braces.

• Starting from the foot end of the legs, attach the 60-inch 2x4’s spaced 7-1/2 inches apart with wood glue and screws. Drive three 3-inch screws through each end of the ladder boards to secure them.
• 8 inches from the foot end of the legs, on the end of the bed where the desk will be, attach a 2x4x54-inch brace with glue and three 3-inch screws on each end. This brace will also act as a footrest for the desk.
• 30 inches from the foot end of the legs, attach another 2x4x54-inch board with glue and three 3-inch screws. This will be the support for the desktop.

• On the long side that goes against the wall, a horizontal 2x4x79-inch brace should run from one leg to the other, 12 inches from the foot end of the legs. Attach with glue and three 3-inch screws in each end.
• Measure the diagonal from the brace that was just installed. Start at what will be the lower end and measure across and up to where the leg is attached at the top of the opposite leg.
• Cut a 2x4 to this length.
• Attach the board across the diagonal that was measured, using glue and three 3-inch screws at each end.

Sand the assembled bed and all the pieces you’ll use to make the desk. Use medium grade sandpaper or an orbital sander. Make sure all the edges are smooth to the touch. Wipe all the wood down with a microfiber cloth to remove dust and debris. Fill any holes and cracks with wood filler or putty. Finish off with the paint or stain of your choice. Let dry overnight.

There are two ways you can add a desk to your loft bed. You can create a stationary desk or a hinged desk.

Here’s how to build a stationary desk:

• For a standard desk height, attach one 54-inch 2x4 board, 28 inches from the floor with three 3-inch screws in each end.
• Attach a 16-1/2-inch long support board to each side with four 3-inch screws in each end.
• Place the plywood desk top on the supports. Attach it with eight 2-inch screws.
• Countersink the screws just below the surface of the desktop. Fill the holes with wood filler or putty.
• Round the edges and corners of the desk top with sandpaper.
• Touch up any paint, if necessary.

Here’s how to build a hinged desk:

• Miter one corner of each piece at 45 degrees.
• Screw in top of 2x4x56 at 30 inches high.
• Screw in top of 2x4x56 at 42 inches high.
• Attach tee hinge to inside of leg post at 29-1/2 inches high.
• Attach 2x4x14-1/2-inch supports to tee hinges. Attach square end so miter edge faces out.
• Place plywood desktop on supports and 30-inch high crossmember.
• Attach one end of the cut 56-inch continuous hinge to desk top. Attach the other end to the 30-inch high crossmember.
• Fold desk to lifted position and attach latch to bottom edge of desk.
• Once latch is attached, mark where sliding latch meets the leg post. (This is where you will drill so the desk can be folded securely.)
• Use a 3/8-inch drill bit and drill a hole for latch.
• Touch up any paint, if necessary.