How to Fix Cracked Tile

Minor cracks can be repaired with a small amount of epoxy and some paint. As you begin to figure out how to fix cracked tile, clean the tile that’s damaged and the area around it.

• Remove any debris from the crack. Use tile cleaner or dish detergent to remove any dust and grease.
• Wipe the tile clean with a cloth. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
• Use a clear epoxy. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing, if necessary.
• Place a small amount of epoxy on a piece of cardboard.
• Apply the epoxy directly into the split. Use a toothpick for a hairline crack or a craft stick for a wider crack.
• Use the flat edge of a craft stick across the crack to level the epoxy. Scrape any excess epoxy from the tile. Work quickly and carefully to remove residue from the tile surface.
• Allow the epoxy to cure according to package instructions.
• Apply a small amount of oil or urethane-based paint matching the tile color to the dried epoxy. Use careful strokes with a fine crafting paintbrush. Allow it to fully dry. The drying process can vary and may take a few hours or more than a day. Check the instructions on the product you’re using for specific dry times.
• Brush urethane sealer over the paint patch to prevent peeling. Allow it to fully dry.

If the crack is too large to be fixed effectively with epoxy, you may need to learn how to replace broken tile. Replacing a tile is a straightforward process.

Tip: Wear safety goggles to prevent dust from getting in your eyes. Broken tile has sharp edges and can injure your hands, so wear heavy work gloves while handling.

• Place a dust sheet around the work area.
• Use a handheld grout saw around the edge of the cracked tile to scrape away its grout and prevent damage to adjacent tiles.
• When you have removed all the grout from around the broken tile, cover it with a drop cloth.
• Using a hammer, firmly tap the cracked tile to break it into smaller pieces.
• Carefully remove the pieces, using a chisel to pry them from the adhesive that bonded the tile to the surface.
• Use a chisel and hammer to chip away the old adhesive from the floor, being careful to not damage any backer board or the subfloor.
• Clear debris and dust from the vacant space using a wet/dry vacuum to leave a smooth and even surface.

For tile setting, use pre-mixed thin-set mortar to bond the new tile into place.

• Spread the thin-set onto the bare floor using the flat edge of a 1/4-inch notched trowel.
• Go over the thin-set with the notched edge of the trowel to create ridges in the adhesive.
• Keeping the new tile flat and parallel to the floor, carefully drop it into place. Putting one edge in first can shift the even layer of adhesive.
• Line up the edges with adjacent tiles and press down evenly.
• Allow the thin-set to cure according to the package instructions. It usually requires 24 hours but quick-drying varieties can cure in a couple hours.

For a small job like replacing a broken tile, use pre-mixed grout.

• Stir the grout to eliminate any settling and to loosen the material for easier application.
• Work the grout into the seam using a grout float. To avoid pulling the grout out, move the float across the seam diagonally, instead of following the gaps around the tile.
• After about 15 minutes, use a damp sponge on the surface of the tile to remove any grout residue.
• Wait a couple hours and then buff the tile with a clean, dry cloth.
• Avoid putting any pressure on the new tile for 24 hours.
• When the grout is fully dry, use a grout sealant to prevent water damage and to limit future staining.