Questions and Answers for Simpson Strong-Tie #9 x 1-1/2 in. 1/4-Hex Drive, Strong-Drive SD Connector Screw (100-Pack)

A:  Yes. This screw is size #9 which is 11/64 inch diameter. This will fit and provide good outdoor durability. The strong tie pipe grip says: The Strong-Tie PGT1.5Z-R Pipe Grip Tie bracket is used to quickly attach your 1-7/8" OD metal fence posts to wood fencing rails, creating an unbelievably solid connection. Just tighten the clamp bolt on the bracket, zip in 4 SDS 1/4" x 1-1/2" heavy duty screws and you're done installing the tie.

A:  They will work. #9 is supposed to be 11/64" just shy of your requested 1/4".

A:  We can only support the installation with the specified fastener - in this case the SDS 1/4" x 1 1/2" screw. Please see model SDS25112-R25 here on the Home Depot website. Thank you!

A:  Banjo

A:  Yes

A:  For me, if they fit the attachment holes and they aren't going to penetrate deeper than the wood you are drilling into, I would certainly use them. The Home Depot website says: "PGT attaches to rails with Simpson Strong-Tie strong-drive sds 1/4 in. x 1-1/2 in. HDG wood screws (not included)"

A:  To sparta NJ: I will be using a Simpson Z max joist hanger for 2x10 with double cross nailing. In addition, I will be using 4x4 posts with a Simpson z max BCS post connector to tie in and support my beams (double 2x10). On top of the beams I plan on using 2x10 for joists. Deck is 12x14. At half the deck's length will be one box of joists and the same for the other half. This deck will cantilever 2' at either end.

A:  yes if you use the proper hanger

A:  This Screw will not connect a joist directly to a header if hanging the joist on the side face of the header or setting on top. It is made to structurally connect a joist hanger to the joist and the header. This is the strongest method to hang joists to headers and is often required by local building code. The hanger you use should specify the size and length of the fasteners approved for use. Otherwise, it is a great screw, have used them many times when attaching something relatively thin (see the smooth shank) to wood. They are a bit more expensive due to being specially made out of an alloy that performs better than most screws in structural settings. They do make different sizes (gauge, like 9 or 10 stamped on head) and lengths. I have used this size the most, but also the 2 1/2 inch, when required by joist hanger specs. Hope this helps!

A:  To answer this question with certainty I would have to know how you are connecting the joists to the header and what type of connector you plan on using. Would it be an appropriately sized joist hanger or tie or had you something else in mind. I assume also that this joist/header assembly will be weight bearing, that is it will be supporting some type of load.

A:  Yes, these screws are suitable for use with framing anchors sized to fit the lumber that is being joined. The 1-1/2" length is ideal for the thickness of 2x lumber,

A:  Yes, with a joist hanger. If you have a double header or ledger though, I would use the 2.5" screws though

A:  No, the screw length will only span the first 2x. You need the 2.5 length Simpson screws. Your Home Depot should have them near where you found the 1.5 inch screws. I have used both depending on the product being installed. Since most Simpson connector products are thin metal, these shorter screws are perfect. If you are attaching a Simpson connector to either the joist or header, these would work. If you are trying to use these to "sister" the 2x boards, I would recommend different screws. These are #9, which has a smaller diameter than 16# nails or 1/4 inch lag screws,

A:  These are designed to screw a Joist hanger into a rim joist or other joist. These are not for screwing two boards together. Basically a screw alternative to a tico nail. They will support a 2x10 if used as a joist hanger fastener.

A:  Yes, they are ACQ rated. From the Technical Specification sheet: “Mechanically-galvanized coating meets ASTM B695 Class 55, is recommended for use with certain preservative-treated woods and recognized as an alternate to hot-dip galvanized in ESR-3046; it is compliant with the 2015 and 2018 International Residential Code.”

A:  yes that info is in the specs

A:  Yes

A:  Yes. They are approved for all pressure treated wood.

A:  Yes, this will work on concrete.

A:  As far as I know they are not designed for use in concrete but they were outstanding for use with two wooden gates I used them for. That being said I have used non-concrete screws in concrete block with success. What I do is where a hole has already been established for the screw I insert two round wooden toothpicks in the hole before inserting the screw. When you slowly tighten the screw the toothpicks fill in the gaps and give the screw its holding power. That worked for me.

A:  Not the best choice for this task. I recommend using screws with shields which can fit into a hole drilled with a masonry bit. The screw will drive the shields into the concrete and yield a tight fit. If the concrete is not yet installed, you have a good option: use bolts with nuts. Put the bolts through the Strong-tie with a nut on each side, and the head extended; bury the heads in the concrete when it is poured. After the concrete sets, you can adjust the nuts to position the Strong-tie where you want it.

A:  These are just designed for wood

A:  No- These are designed for a wood application. That being said, you would be better off to drill out the holes on the Simpson angle to allow the use of a 3/16" concrete screw. Perhaps something like these if you want to stay within the Simpson family line: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Titen-3-16-in-x-2-3-4-in-Hex-Head-Concrete-and-Masonry-Screw-Blue-25-Pack-TTN218234HC25/300688766 Keep in mind that you will not be able to generate the same load calcs having upsized the holes in the Simpson angle, but you can compensate for that by perhaps adding another angle if you are near the threshold of the design load for your application. I hope this helps.

A:  No, you need tapcoms

A:  You want a snug fit; I would guess that five to ten foot-pounds would be good.

A:  I've never torque them (per say). I just install them until they are flush.

A:  I just drive the screw in until they are tight. I don't think about tonguing them.

A:  Just drive it until it is nice and tight

A:  I used an 8 setting on my rigid cordless screw driver

A:  I use a variable speed drill-driver that has a numerical torque setting but that numerical designation is for reference only and varies from brand to brand so giving you a numerical setting from my drill-driver would impart no information at best and might, at worst, be misleading. Quite frankly, I'm not sure that you need that setting or would in fact want it. You'll notice that there is a shoulder or face on the head of the screw which limits how far you can drive the screw and, if you have a variable speed drill-driver, it is very easy to snug the screw head/shoulder tightly against the face of the wood. Torque limiting devices are best used and are are most accurate when there are few or no variables to compensate for. In your case you may be driving a screw into a knot in the wood that triggers the torque limiter while the screw is still not seated tightly against the face of the wood. Even the very species and condition of the wood could cause a variation in the torque required to effectively seat the screw properly. I personally noted variations from piece to piece when I was assembling my project. You can choose your own method for ensuring that the screw is properly seated and someone may offer other advice that you will follow. Because of the possible variables in the wood that I cited I chose to seat the screws against the face of the wood using the variable speed feature on my drill-driver while paying attention that I was seating the screw face tightly against the wood. This requires some experience and skill so, again, I am suggesting you use your own good judgement in choosing a method to ensure that the screws are properly seated. You should be comfortable with the method you choose and it should compliment and fit within your own experience and skill level. The method that I used worked well for me but I have thousands of hours of construction experience.

A:  No, the hex head is 1/4" & the thickness is about 5/32

A:  nope. #9 is .177" (about 11/16"). For 1/4" you'd want a #14 screw, more likely labeled as a 1/4" screw.

A:  No. It is 11/64" or .177" thick.

A:  Yes, structural connectors, like the "hurricane ties," are the intended application of these screws.

A:  The specs on the HD website indicate that they can be installed with common 8d nails or #9 x 1-1/2 SD screws. So...the answer is yes. The screws go in a lot easier and quieter than nails.

A:  Yes

A:  I am not an engineer but I do believe that if every hole in the fastener is filled with these screws as intended by the manufacturer, it should meet building code requirements...… in my opinion

A:  Yes

A:  Yeah I don't see why not. They will fit, if that is what you are driving at.

A:  Plastic or wood? If your going to put up wolmanized wood lattice I find that it splits very easily so I would use a finish nailer instead of screws. But if your going to use plastic lattice it would do fine after you drill a pilot hole first.

A:  I don't see why they couldn't be used for the purpose that you propose as long as the 1-1/2" length suits your needs. These are high strength screws intended to secure steel structural connectors,

A:  these screws will hold a ton of weight. If lattice panels are all you are holding in place, then I believe the screws would be the only thing remaining after the worse nor'easter hits the area. You wont have a problem with these screws.

A:  These are specialty screws used for Simpson Strong tie brand structural bracing, joist hangers and such. For an outdoor application by a pool I would suggest you get Deck Mate, or any brand of exterior water proof, and corrosion resistant screws. Also being specialty screws the price point is appropriately higher per pound than you would be paying for the other mentioned screws.

A:  Yes, you can use cheaper screws for that though

A:  No reason you couldnt, assuming the lattice is going into wood. Might want to pre-drill the lattice so it doesn't split. Good luck.

A:  Yes. But impact driver is one of my favorite tools. Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing. 18-Volt ONE+ Lithium-Ion Cordless Brushless 1/2 in. Hammer Drill/Driver Kit with 4.0Ah LITHIUM+ Battery, Charger and Bag https://www.homedepot.com/p/300225309

A:  Yes, as long as screwed in all the way

A:  yes you can. These act just like a regular screw and will imbed itself in the wood like it was going into sheetrock.

A:  Yes. I used a regular cordless drill.

A:  I used a battery powered screwdriver to do my job.

A:  Yes

A:  Yes, it will just take a little longer

A:  Yes. I have used both a regular drill and a hammer drill. They both work. Best to use a variable speed drill but not absolutely necessary.

A:  Probably. You will want to predrill a pilot hole if you are using these for hardwoods.

A:  Yes, they are self taping, no pre drilling needed. I always use the recommended screw size for a particular Simpson Strong Tie. Never had a problem with the screws with Simpson Strong Ties. That being said, I have had problems with the nails! they are plated and have build up as to not go into the pre drilled holes in brackets. Not all of the nails but enough that I only use the structural screws now.

A:  I used these on the strong tie braces with no issues on my deck with stair stringers and joist brackets.

A:  First, yes, they are self drilling. The easiest way to install them is with an impact driver and a 1/4 inch hex bit. Get a magnetic bit, if you can. They self drill quite easily. Like all screws driven into wood, the risk of splitting depends on the species of wood. Typical framing wood species are soft woods, like fir, spruce and pine and normally do not split unless driven very near the end of a board. If you want to use in very hard woods, like hickory, oak, or maple, you may have a splitting issue with any screw. Refer to the manufacturers specifications about the structural rating of drilling pilot holes and be sure not to drill too large a hole. I suggest testing on a scrap of the same wood you want to use. As for will they work with all Simpson Strongtie braces, that depends on the brace. These are #9 (thickness of shank) fasteners and are intended to replace the appropriate size nail in the brace. Some braces require larger and longer fasteners and other smaller and shorter to perform as designed. You should refer to Simpson Strongtie site for specifics on which fastener is appropriate for which brace.

A:  I was able to drill these into 6x6 cedar without any problems, go slow.

A:  I installed these without drilling a pilot hole and did not experience cracking.

A:  Yes, they truly are self-tapping in that they will drive right in even without a pilot hole. The issue, though, is the wood itself. The wood displaced by the shank has to go somewhere... If you are driving into a softwood like white, or even yellow, pine you'll be fine. But if you are driving into a hardwood, the issue is not self-tapping it's displacement -- you need a pilot hole to get the wood out of the way. The cracking is caused by wood trying to displace, and the rest of the wood being unable to compress. I can't comment on the Simpson hole size (on all products) relative to the screw shank.

A:  Yes, they are. The only way I would foresee a crack is if you drive them into dry (not fresh, wet, green) wood too close to an edge.

A:  I have used a few hundred of them with no pre drilling. Not had any issues maybe if your putting this into something small. But if used in something like a 2x4 or 2x6 should not be an issue.

A:  absolutely. Unless its an exotic wood like mahogany, these will predrill itself into the wood. Stay away from getting to close to corners and knots and you shouldn't have a problem.

A:  YES. These are commonly used without predrilling. They are Much less likely to split wood than nails are. They will displace metal as they go through Simpson hardware.