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    Questions and Answers for Tenmat Recessed Light Cover

    Internet #204286308

    Model #FF130E

    Store SKU #1000012747

    Recessed Light Cover

    • Protects light fixtures
    • Prevents air leakage
    • Reduces draft

    Questions & Answers

    Viewing 17-24 of 38

    I would say yes for both questions. Using these and sealing the base of them with a sealant would only ensure an air tight guard against thermal exposure gaps.

    By|Aug 27, 2019

      I used these on LED retrofit light cans then sealed them with foam spay. Turned lights on for 4 hrs covers were not even warm. Put installation over the covers works fine.

      By|Dec 2, 2024

      (1)

      Hello Anonymous, Of course. The main purpose of these covers are for insulating non-IC cans. The cover makes the can air tight while keeping the insulation off of them providing an air space. This air space was needed due to the fact that old lamps were VERY hot. LED's on the other hand do not put off heat. So you gain efficiency for you house as your heated or air conditioned air is not going up into the floor or attic. Plus you are keeping bugs, nasty air and noise from entering your house too!. This is a great way to stop the loss of your energy from cans that are not airtight! Hope that helps Jeff in Seattle

      By|Dec 2, 2024

      (2)

      Dear Vahak: This version of the Tenmat recessed light cover is designed to block drafts and is not UL fire rated. Tenmat does make versions that are 1 and 2 hour UL fire rated, however, which you can probably order from your Home Depot's Customer Service or Pro Desk. Ask them to look up these Tenmat parts: FF109X 2 hou UL fire rated cover FF109-300 UL fire rated cover This is a Home Depot service that many customers are not aware of. They carry a much wider range of building products than what is displayed on shelves in a retail store. Home Depot will deliver your order to the store or to your job site, and prices are competitive. I hope this is helpful. Mark

      By|Jan 25, 2024

      (1)

      The FF130E is NOT fire rated, if you need a fire rated light cover, FOR APPLICATIONS IN FIRE RATED CEILINGS (1 & 2 HR) USE TENMAT FF109 COVERS. The Tenmat FF130E Recessed Light Cover has been specifically designed to keep insulation away from recessed lights in attics and roof/ceiling designs. The cover is made out of fire resistant mineral wool material and maintains sufficient space around the fixture for proper functionality when surrounded by insulation.

      By|Feb 7, 2019

      you will have to check with the manufacturer

      By|Feb 7, 2019


      This light cover is not meant to be an insulator. It's designed to make the light can air tight so that you will not leak conditioned cool air from the living area into the hot attic or cold air from attic into the warm conditioned living area. There will be some resistance to heat flow either way but the wall thickness of the cover is quite small (less than 1/4") therefore the insulating quality will be small. If your soft duct is very close to the light can or other heat source you need to moved it further away. I'd say at least 1 foot away. Otherwise you risk it melting.

      By|Dec 2, 2024

        (1)

        Hi I think it would help because they have some fire resistance so the heat of the light should come out.

        By|Jan 26, 2019


        These make the job of insulating the recessed lights from the attic (in my case) very easy to do. They are easily removed if need be, and can be easily and accurately cut to allow for the wiring to and from the fixture. It could be done by building it custom with wood, but in my opinion it was worth the cost of purchasing these for my project.

        By|Apr 14, 2019

          (1)

          Wood would cost more than these in material and time. The idea behind these is to air seal your home. Also if they were built or wood someone would likely think they could step there. Oooops

          By|Aug 24, 2019

            Depends what you want to do. Yes if there is no issues with codes, Sure you can do.

            By|Jan 28, 2019

              As a retired contractor I highly recommend not to make them out of wood. These covers have some fire resistance.

              By|Dec 2, 2024

              (1)

              Sorry, that is more of an engineer type question to answer. My take is it is manufactured for a specific use. Good luck

              By|Jan 3, 2020

                yes you could. these are for convenience. you can do the same thing with various materials and methods

                By|Jun 2, 2020

                  (3)

                  any cover needs to be made out of a non flammable material or have a higher combustion temp. specification than what the recessed light fixture max temp is.

                  By|Jun 2, 2020

                  (3)

                  you will have to check with the manufacture.

                  By|Jan 21, 2019

                  That question is not discussed anywhere in the literature that comes with the covers. A cover is mentioned for Fire Rated Ceilings ( 1 - 2 HR). That cover is FF109 same manufacturer. You may be able to get more info off their web site.

                  By|Dec 20, 2018

                  Hello, the gray colored one in the image is what I have and its only seems to be rated for air infiltration however the company does have red colored "fire rated" covers as well. Check their web site for lots of specs on both models. https://www.tenmatusa.com/

                  By|Dec 20, 2018

                    Hello LarryB, Actually, a common misunderstanding is if there is a maximum temperature before the product burns. This is not the case, all mineral wool is A1 non-combustible. However, rock mineral wool is able to tolerate higher temperatures without any loss to its insulation properties than glass mineral wool (such as fiberglass). Mineral wool is actually the steel slag that floats to the top of molten steel that they push off the steel before pouring. This "waste" product is spun or molded into this fireproof material. However, applying a blow torch to mineral wool (such as in a fire) will cause heat transfer and glow (this is why they use mineral wool in the fake "embers" in gas fireplaces). It doesn't burn up or go away. However, in a house fire, flame would eventually "burn" through from the transfer of heat to combust objects on the opposite side of the housing. So depending on why you asked your question, here are three further answers: If you are wondering about lamp housing temperatures, the product was fire tested in accordance with IEC 60598-1. Most newer can lights actually have a thermal cutoff switch if the can gets too hot and will shut off the lamp anyhow. There is a FF135 which is larger if you have a larger can light or need more clearance between the can and the housing or the lamp produces high heat. If you are wondering about the material and its effectiveness as an insulation barrier for can lights, the product was thermally tested according to UL 1598 for usage with IC and Non-IC rated lights. Cut with a utility knife to fit around can arms or other such obstructions. Use Great Stuff fireproofing foam (also at Home Depot) to secure to the housing to the ceiling back and any wire holes to make it airtight. Or if you are concerned about breaking a fire-rated surface (such as 5/8" drywall in a garage ceiling to a floor space above that is living space), then you need the actual fire-rated version of this housing. Either the FF109-300 UL fire rated enclosure, or the FF109-350 1-hour fire rated enclosure, or the FF109X 2-hour fire rated enclosure. NOTE: this is the only 2-hour UL tested and approved fire barrier that can be used with a wide range of recessed lights to effectively prevent the spread of flames. All five temet enclosures are the same material but the fire-rated ones have a coating on the outside to delay flame and heat spread. Most residential fire codes when barriers are noted state two hours. Check your local codes. No matter the type, all enclosures of this brand provide: 1. Compatible with sprayed foam insulation, low density foam, blown-in insulation and lay-in insulation. 2. Reduces heat loss through the light fixture. 3. Limits the amount of cold or hot air entering from outside. 4. Prevents insects and other small animals from entering through the light. 5. Keeps flammable insulation at a safe distance from hot recessed lights. 6. Flexible and lightweight (approx. 2 lbs.) 7. Easy to fit – can be fitted in seconds – No assembly required. 8. Enhances the acoustic protection of the ceiling. 9. Flexible material enables cover to be fitted around obstructions or retro-fitted. 0. Maintenance free. I hope that answers your question Jeff in Seattle

                    By|Jan 25, 2024

                    (1)

                    I really don't know but I think there is no r value

                    By|Nov 27, 2018

                    These are not rated by "R factor" the purpose of this cover is to seal off any air leakage between the can light and the attic and secondary to hold the attic insulation back from touching the can light. R factor is achieved by your attic insulation. I sealed mine to the attic floor with spray foam in a can or a good quality caulking can work. Then the insulation goes over top.

                    By|May 23, 2020

                      (3)

                      These are very thin and made by compressing a material. Result is a very small, nearly negligible r value. If sealed well, it can help by reducing convective air currents.

                      By|Nov 28, 2018

                        The light cover comes with simple instructions for installing. R Factor is not mentioned. The thermal factor is only discussed in terms of safe light bulb wattage to use for various light bulb types. The objective for installing these covers is to reduce drafts (IN and OUT) around NIC light fixtures like recessed ceiling lights (pot lights). It does that very well. Once installed correctly, insulation can be installed right up to and over the cover. So, if you have blown in insulation in the ceiling where you install the cover and you bring that insulation up to and over the Cover, the R factor would be some portion of the blown in insulation R factor. Maybe 1/4 or something like that. Remember, before installing the cover over NIC lights there is no insulation around the light and therefore no R Factor at all. I used the cover over 5 POT lights in the kitchen ceiling. I noticed an immediate reduction in cold drafts and warm air escaping. This may not be a do-it-yourself project for you. Depending on how the lighting wiring is installed, the covers may need to be cut for placement and then resealed.

                        By|Nov 10, 2019

                        (1)

                        That is a question for the manufacturer. I only used them as a barrier between the can light fixture and the actual insulation. I don’t think they offer much as a stand alone insulation.

                        By|Nov 30, 2018

                          I guess I am the only one that understands Janet's question. HEAT. I think she wants to know about the thing heating up the Metal/Alum box and/or the Insulation, once it's covered, because of OLDER bulbs being used and gets hotter while running them than these newer low wattage types. Yeah, R factor deals with Insulation(per inch protection). I didn't see the max temperature these things can endure. Seen a YT Vid that said (Rockwell) same type, is good for 2,000 degrees F. Don't know about that. Maybe she meant the "retention of heat ". If I'm wrong sorry.

                          By|Jan 3, 2020

                          (1)

                          You should be able to order however many you need online

                          By|Nov 20, 2018

                            I think best bet is to go talk to a contractor specialist in the store,there is a good chance they will give you a better price also.

                            By|Oct 31, 2018

                              Home Depot sent me your question because I used the Tenmat covers. I don't know if they will give you a better price for 25. I would visit a store and ask at the customer service desk what they can do for you. Otherwise you can just order 25 off the web page, but there doesn't appear to be quantity pricing mentioned there.

                              By|Oct 31, 2018


                              Hello Victor, I suppose the 3000L fixture is 3000 lumens. However, the type of lamp determines the rating. For instance, an incandescent lamp is the worst at producing lumens versus the heat and energy they expend and generate. While an LED produces way more lumens for much less wattage and heat. The heat is the real issue. The buildup of heat within the insulated cover is the problem. Most ceiling fixtures will have a temp cutoff sensor in the top, but not all. Here is typical ratings of different lamps: Lamp Type Emitted Light from The Source (lumen/Watt) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Incandescent: 10 - 15 Low Voltage Halogen 20 Mercury Vapor 40 - 60 Fluorescent 50 - 90 Metal Halide 70 - 90 White LED 80+ High Pressure Sodium 90 - 125 Low Pressure Sodium 120 - 200 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ A typical incandescent GLS light bulb emits approximately 10 lumen/Watt A typical fluorescent tube emits up to approximately 60 lumen/Watt So if you are using typical incandescent lamps in a downward fashion with a NON-IC can, I would consider using an LED replacement (do not use fluorescent in a downward fashion as the heat destroys the ballast at the base in short order). However, if you are using an IC can, they typically have an air gap between two layers of metal acting as a buffer. Even with supposedly air-tight cans, I would still use a cover as they are only "air tight" by how many CFMs they exchange an hour....meaning they leak, just slower. You should go for air-tight with this cover. The lamp itself you are using should have a wattage and perhaps a heat rating. Let me know if that helps, Jeff in Seattle

                              By|Jan 25, 2024

                              (1)

                              Dear Victor: The key issues are wattage and heat (BTUs). You could have a 3000L fixture with incandescent (hot), flourescent or LED bulbs, which all require significantly different watts of power, and different heat output. That's why you see 'warning' stickers on light fixtures, cautioning the user about the wattage limits. So check your bulbs. LED is the best option. I hope this is helpful. Mark

                              By|Jan 25, 2024

                              (1)